Okay, Time for this Voyage to Begin (4)
After very little conversation, we woke one morning and said, “This is the day we won’t go sailing in the British Virgin Islands. We didn’t make reservation and pack for the trip and didn’t fly down Tortola and hire a cab to take us to the Moorings. We also did not spend countless hours in line to the go to the plane, in airports and looking for transportation.
Then we did not arrive bright-eyed and bushy-tailed at the Moorings.
We didn’t pick the Moorings based on our experience with them in Grenada when we hired on for a day (see the beginning of the Log). The Moorings were established in 1969 and have flourished since then. Not meeting with the sales for we didn’t rent a 42.1 foot, 3 cabin fit for 8 people for a mere $7,249, we then didn’t add $3,010 for a cook, and a captain for $3,486 plus $420 each for their provisions. Neither did we add additional insurance for $648, $50 for a BVI national park fee, $4 for a Sisar contributions, and a summer cruising tax at $168 dollars. Since this is not a real voyage we have saved $14,429 plus a thousand or two for incidentals. Wow, we are really saving money on not going on our 2 weeks excursion in the British Virgin Islands. This is the way to not go folks.
A bit more about the yatch we did not rent. At dock we can enjoy air conditioning if it get a bit hot. The daily average temperature is about 77.8 degrees in December. The master cabin has a double bed and en-suite bathroom shower. The other 2 cabins will have to share the other bathroom (head). The overall cabin has nice oak finishings, Silvertex Macadamia cushions. The galley has a flat screen TV, refrigerator, 2 burner gas stove and lots of places to stow cookware.
Obviously we will stay in the master cabin and the cook and captain will each have their own cabin. The Beneteau 41.1 has an overall length of 40 feet and 9 inches (go figure.) It has a beam of 13’9”, its draft is 5.6 (that’s the width of the boat and how far down the keel goes for you land lubbers.) It has a sail area of 902 sq ft and carries 150 gallons of water along with 53 gallons of fuel. Here is the cabin layout below.
Boy are we not luxuriating in the BVI
Have to not rest up now for not sailing away tomorrow or whenever.
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5th entry into non BVI log: Tortola
Tortola is the BVI’s biggest island (55.7 sq. mi.) and has the most people about 24,000. So what does this British isle use for currency? The good ol American dollar. And, like many Caribbean Islands “financial services” are prevalent; meaning if you want to hide money from the government this is one of the places to service your money grubbing, cheat-minded, I-Got-Mine-Screw-You, running dog capitalist pig folk.
It is believed that Christopher Columbus gave the island the name of Tortola, which is “turtle dove” in Spanish. Bull, he called it Santa Ana. The Dutch called it Tholen but the British gave it its current name, so far, Tortola. A few Spaniards tried to settle there without much luck – however, the pirates were likely its first permanent resident; rogues like Blackbeard and Captain Kidd and the notorious Captains Dreded Drennan, Felonious Febock, Briny Bindl, Nefarious Nye, Swarthy Stilling, Marading Rumpf, Mencing Mellisa the Galloping Gallick, Jabberwocky Jesse, Steely Eyed Sal, Savage Sami the Bonny Hoom, and jovial Jumping Jarod the Jason the Argonaut.
Early English and Dutch settlers set up big sugar plantations worked by slave labor from Africa. After our revolutionary war folk from the original 13 colonies received grants from the Crown (spoils of war?). They set up the US Virgin Islands and soon had more slaves than the British. Just makes you proud don’t it. When the British abolished slavery they set out their ships to intercept the now illegal slaves ships. This made it difficult to run their huge sugar plantations; tough. Then they got hit hard in 1867 by an earthquake and a resulting tsunami. Divine justice? Not really as the slaves and locals were hurt the worst.
I think it is probably time for us to meet our Captain which I keep insisting that we do not need on our non-voyage but is required as the charter company does seem to be convinced that I am one of the heroic and battle tested and trusted boat and bon viavant captains of all time. Probably because the proposed captains first made kept making mocking and mischievous and maligning remarks while I was informing them of my credentials.
Figure 4 The Moorings rebuilt after Hurricane Irma
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6th entry into the non BVI Log: Meeting the Captain
We arose early today in anticipation of meeting our new captain for the cruise and perhaps the cook. After a hearty breakfast of tea, crumpets, kippers and blood pudding we walked down to the dock and out toward our Beneteau where the captain was to meet us. The captain was in the cockpit and we asked permission to come aboard and introduced ourselves. The captain was a smallish man, a bit bigger than myself, with a gravelly voice, sun bleached clothes, a disheveled captains hat and was rotating what looked like metal ball bearings around in his hand. I have a pair balls like that; mine are silvery and chime when you moved them about to improved hand dexterity, I assumed that his were like them. He grunted in our direction while clacking his balls together and mumbled his name. “Sorry,” I said, “I didn’t quite catch your name, what is it again?”
He replied, “Blight.” Then, with a little more vigor he barked, “Captain Blight! I’ve been sailing these waters for years and years…and years. Where do you land lubbers hail from?”
We replied in unison, sounding like an old hippy band, “We are from Wisconsin, Lake Mills Wisconsin.”
“Lake Mills,” he pondered. “Lake Mills, I suppose you have a small puddle there you call a lake. Is that where you got your sailing done.” Not waiting for a response, he continued, “no wonder they required you to have a captain. You’d like to have sunk the good Bunty here the first day out.”
Decided that now was not the time to tell of my vast sailing experience, I said, “Bunty? Our boat is named ‘Bunty’”
“Yep,” retorted Captain Blight with a bit of a sneer. “She was named after the owner’s girlfriend Bunty. She was a buxom bit of fluff. She fell overboard the first time she sailed. I had to think hard whether to turn into the wind and haul her back aboard.” She did fill out a bikini well though and leered at Doreen. Oh my.
Once aboard Captain Blight showed us around the boat. Below he pointed out our master’s cabin forward. He said he had already stowed his gear in the birth on the portside and the cook who should be by soon on the starboard side. He said, “Don’t be a messing with stuff in the galley, that’s cook’s area and she doesn’t cotton to land lubbers messing it up.” We then went on deck and he showed us the rigging that we should leave up to him, unless he requested a hand, the added, “And do be a fallin’ overboard. Boats don’t back up easily.”
Soon the cook showed up a climbed aboard. Captain Blight introduced her as Lady Beryl Patmore laughing when he said “lady.” He then added, “Cookie, your birth in on the starboard side.”
He then said that we should take a wee sail before lunch to get us used to life at sea. Then he allowed that I could cast of the dock lines (not ropes you landlubber the captain yelled at me) while he eased the Bunty away from the dock under power. The diesel powering the Bunty was a bit stinky.
We sailed around a bit with Captain Blight telling us lots of stuff we already knew, but obediently listened to. Around 1 pm (two bells) Captain Blight pointed the Bunty into the wind and dropped anchor. He then instructed Cookie to bring him some rum punch. While Doreen and I enjoyed a rum punch with Captain Blight. Mrs. Patmore made some tasty corned beef sandwiches, chips and mangos, which were very good.
After a few rum punches Captain Blight loosened up a bit and began to tell stories about his life at sea. He told about being buddies a sailor, Tristan Jones, and adventures they had. I had read of Jones adventures and with the help of rum punch began to enjoy Captain Blight a bit more.
Captain then announced it was time to head back to the dock to talk of our sailing itinerary and spend the night at the Moorings dock. This time he allowed me to haul up the sails and set the sheets for close haul into the wind toward port.
By the time we had secured the boat at dock Captain Blight said the Sun was over the yardarm and it was time for cocktails. We complied.
Figure 6: Our good Captain Blight. Notice the silver balls
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8th Entry into the BVI non log: Enjoying Norman Island
After lunch at the Pirate Bight Restaurant, we settled our food bill and paid for our mooring, which was only $25, a bargain. Captain Blight told us we should meet a fella who sat a table near us. He then introduced us to R. S. Stevenson, local guide and teller of tales. R.S. said for a small island of about less than aa section, 600 acres to be exact; 2 ½ miles long. It was a part of the cluster of Islands called “Little Sisters” which included Norman, Pelican, Peter, Salt, Dead Chest and Ginger Islands. Norman Island is known for its caves along the western edge of the island, which are great for snorkeling, we passed on the snorkeling. The only inhabitants of the island are goats. R.L. told us that a number of folk like going in search of pirate treasure on the Island. He also said the book, “Treasure Island” was inspired by those pirate tales written by and ancestral cousin of his.
Figure 9: The snorkeling caves on Norman Island
We then took a long walk about the island with R.L. as he continued to tell us about the island and its quirks. For instance, he told us that there was a replica the old schooner Willy T in the harbor until it was until it was destroyed by Hurricane Irma. Its owners rebuilt the ship but for some reason the BVI government would not let continue to anchored on the Isle. It would, however, let it be anchored in the Great Harbor on Peter Island. Sounds like skullduggery to us.
Tired from our walk we bid adieu to R.L. and took the dinky back to the Bunty. We think Capt. Blight spent most of his time at the restaurant while we were walking drink rum punch. Back aboard Cook Patmore then created a gourmet supper including yellow fin tuna with fresh vegetables.
After supper Capt. Blight told us a story while enjoyed more rum punch and we continued to enjoy a fine chardonnay we had at supper. The captain told us that a fella named Henry Jarecki owned the entire island. Jarecki was Jewish and born in Stettin, now called Szczecin, Poland. He and his family had fled Poland during WWII to the United Kingdom and then on the U.S.A. They were able to transfer their funds safely during the time. Returning to Poland he graduated from Heidelberg University Medical Facility in 1957 and was an academic and taught at Yale Medical School where is still a adjunct Professor. He wrote a book, Modern Psychiatric Treatment a huge tome. He was and is quite a guy. Besides his medical expertise in psychiatry he was also quite an entrepreneur specializing in bullion buying and selling. Capt Blight suspected it my have been funded by pirate gold Jarecki hand discovered on Norman Isle while snorkeling and spelunking in one of the caves. Capt. Blight said, the Jarecki also like the movies and became a movie producer. His movies included: Gardeners of Eden (2004), Cuba: Island of Music (2005), Aint’ Supposed to Die a Natural Death (2007), Tyson, Cat on a Hot Tine Roof, A Streetcar Named Desire, Melvin Van Peebles, and How to Eat Your Watermelon in White Company (And Enjoy It). Capt. Blight also told us that Jarecki was quite a philanthropist and had set Youth Center on Tortola. He continued that Jarecki make lived in Rye, New York, but also had a house in the BVI and also owns another Island, Guana Island. Among is awards, Jarecki had a lizard named after him, Jarec ki’s Flying Dragon.
Figure 10: Flying Dragon (Jarecki ?)
Figure 11: Henry Jarecki (he is a real person
We grew a bit sleepy as we listened to the good Capt. Blight and fell into our berth to embrace Morpheus.
Figure 12: Guana Island: Sounds shitty but is nice